After my relaxing morning of writing, I followed up on a suggestion from Keith to have a mini-chat with the kids over breakfast. We had our first roundtable discussion about what we’d seen, what had surprised us, what we were feeling. It was nice to have some time together with the kids to hear what they’re taking in. When everyone was preparing to leave, Henry’s and my orders for breakfast finally arrived (Africa time). I burned my mouth on the extremely hot porridge but raced off to the cars to head to the ADP office.
The ride was about an hour, back in the direction we’d come the day before. With Jake in the passenger seat and me right behind, both with open windows, I got a double dose of what I can only describe as a dust storm. I arrived at the site looking like someone caked in a layer of red dirt frosted across my face. The driver immediately offered me a bottle of water to splash on my face, and when it appeared that wouldn’t do the job, Henry offered a tub of baby wipes for me to begin the process of peeling back the layers of Africa dust. Before the meeting began, I went to the restroom and was informed that there was no water running. The gentleman offered me a large cup of water from a drum and I proceeded to use the facilities and dump the water to rinse the bowl. It reminded me of my days at my grandparent’s bungalow on Mire Gut in Nova Scotia.
We then went to a debriefing, led by Jared (pronounced Ja-reed). It was a big room and we were all seated on old sofas in a horseshoe shaped pattern. He spoke for a few minutes and then asked us if we had any questions. I was a bit disappointed that the kids weren’t super interactive. After all, these people had come in on a Sunday (their day of rest) to spend the day with us. I even slipped several of them a note to encourage them to speak up, but I got nothing – just an obstinate shake of the head from one of them, an act I translated to mean “Not a chance.” As a result, the meeting ended early and we got on the road to see our very first site. Frustrated, I headed back toward the car. I forget sometimes these are just kids.
The tone of everything changed dramatically when we arrived at a water point. We walked to a well where women and girls were filling their yellow drums. The kids came alive. Suddenly, they were talking to people, taking pictures, and swarming with what seemed like dozens of beautiful village children all wanting to see their pictures on the digital view screen.
I took a turn at the pumping of the water and found that while not as hard as I imagined, it still built some muscle. When I asked if I could try putting the drum on my back, the village girls started dying with laughter. I’ll admit it. I looked ridiculous with my hip jutting out and my arms clumsily holding this behemoth-sized water container. I walked about fifteen yards before having to set it down – rather ungracefully I might add. One of the ADP workers took me to see a family latrine which they had constructed nearby their tucal. It was like a teepee made of straw with only a small cloth to cover the entrance. By local accounts, this method of having a collective latrine for families reduces the random defecation that is leading to disease and water contamination.
Because the kids were about twenty-yards away with the majority of the crowd hovering nearby, I took the chance to ask the gentleman who was showing us around if there was a chance I might see a tucal on the inside. I was very cautious in asking the question as I didn’t want to be intrusive. The man generously took me to his home and let me take some pictures of the inside. What I had thought would just be a large open circle of space was in fact divided into two parts – the front entry way seemed empty but the rear had a small pit with hot embers and a few round cakes or loaves of bread cooking. There were a few Spartan items on the ground, but all in all it was an excruciating reality check to see the sum total of this man’s world. To think that five people had to occupy that space seemed a geometric challenge that left me only to believe that people must sleep virtually on top of one another – leaving privacy for a mom and dad an untenable concept.
We returned to the ADP site at Arba Minch to have lunch. It was the best meal yet. Tall bottles of Mirinda (orange soda) and plates filled with injira and meat. Yum! I took a few moments to be my intrusive self and asked the ADP workers where the women were. They told me the only women in the compound were the secretary and the cooks. I would have been more aghast were it not for the very minimalist lifestyle these workers in the camp have. Working in the field is not for the weak of spirit or stomach. The bathrooms are holes in the ground, and the running water is intermittent at best. The men in the camp seem particularly well educated, and I imagine it’s due to the BBC they watch in the common room – there is little else to do by way of entertainment.
The workers took us to a lake where we saw girls washing their clothes and bathing. Nearby, cattle were milling about – an easy demonstration of why the mixing of cattle waste and water is so dangerous. A young girl walked away from the lake with a jug of that same water.
We visited several other sites, several still waiting for water access. I suppose I could have imagined it, but it just seemed that there was a layer of dust everywhere. Those without water seemed caked in just one more layer. It was as if we were heading one step farther on the poverty scale. We continued to take pictures of the people until Abraham shouted, “Let’s move!” This is his typical call for us to depart.
Last night, we returned to the hotel ready to sink into bed. It was only 5:30, but the day had weakened all our resolve. I went back to my room and proceeded to dump my dust-saturated clothes onto the floor of the shower to rinse. As I scrubbed with a bar of soap I imagined how it must be to do that always. As the water ran, I felt such a pang of guilt that I used my pants to stop the drain so a small one inch reservoir could form. I wrung out the shirts and socks and proceeded the futile attempt to remove the cakes of dirt from every square inch of my body. I scrubbed and laughed as my mind actually formulated the question, “Did you wash behind your ears?” When I stepped out of the small spray of water, I wiped off my arms to see that there was still a remainder of sediment. I didn’t care. Tomorrow it would all just come again. I changed and headed to dinner.
A very subdued affair. Poor Keith was not doing very well and had to take the evening off from our not so ebullient company. I’m crossing my fingers that he’s better today. I sat with Abraham, Mary, Carton, Henry, Akiko, Cheri, and several other World Vision workers – the adult table I guess we’d call it. Across from us, I watched as the kids slowly went from the rowdiness of hyper-fatigue to a near catatonia. I felt bad telling them all that we would be rising the next morning at 6 to do interviews for Jake’s video. But we needed the light and really didn’t have a better alternative. I felt worse telling the kids they couldn’t just go to bed and rest up for the early morning call, but they hadn’t written their blogs and I wasn’t going to let that go. Every day is just too full of sights, sounds, experiences that we have to write each day for fear of “losing the moment.” Diligently they returned to their rooms and did what I’d asked. Seth even came to my room to type his very first blog entry! I am so glad he is on this trip. He smiles so brightly when he talks about what he sees, and while what he wrote made me smile, I believe I enjoyed watching him thinking and typing twice as much. It was especially fun to see him peering over the screen at Henry and my game of Scrabble. Unintimidated, he dove into a game with us as soon as he’d finished, and he only came in 10 points behind Henry! Not too shabby for a 12-year-old. After I walked Seth back to his room, Henry and I stayed up talking a bit about the conservation question. I see him struggling with the same questions I feel have been plaguing me since I first set foot in this country. From mentor to mentee, I think this is wonderful! From human to human, I’m sad to see him join me on what is a daily struggle to equate the world we know with the world we wish to see.